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Dragon Knights' Dragon Fly © SKepecs 2011 |
by Susan Kepecs
The
eleventh annual Madison World Music
Festival, at the Memorial Union (Fri.
/ Sat., Sept. 12-13) and the Willy St. Fair (Sat. afternoon only), is, like
all of its predecessors, a chance to check in with the state of the globe, take
stock of the big picture, and be blown away by how people rise above conflict
with joyful noise. And this year’s fest
is a joyful occasion, celebrating the reopening of the renovated Wisconsin
Union Theater – vital venue and crucial community builder that it is – after
two long years.
The lineup itself is something to celebrate. No Irish reggae cumbia hip hop flamenco bands
(my pet peeve) plague the stage. Maybe
the the Millennial generation’s finally realized that its altermodern mashups,
the spawn of socioeconomic globalization and aesthetic universalism, have finally gone too far. Most of the bands on this bill are young, but all are culturally
explicit within the blurred parameters of the twenty-first century.
It’s also a very dancey affair.
Seven of the nine bands on the bill play
grab-you-by-the-seat-of-your-pants-and-make-you-move music, and there are two
dance companies to boot. One is Bay
Area-based Bandaloop (Fri., 4:30 and 6:45 PM; Sat. 4:30 PM and 7
PM, Union Terrace) – daring aerial dancers who’ll fly gracefully off the
outside walls of the Union Theater. More
on them in a separate post that follows.
The other is bailaora / coreógrafa flamenca Vanesa Aibar, with her
musicians – more on that below.
And, now that construction on the Union Terrace is done, the Dragon Knights, those spectacular, towering, stiltwalker puppets, return (Fri.; 4 PM and 7:15 PM; Sat. 4 PM and 5
PM, Union Terrace)! Founder Lily
Valerie Noden, who’s French and lives in California, describes her artform as
culturally blended theater with roots in Europe, Africa, Asia and the US (go to
her website, http://www.stiltshow.com/home.html, for more of the story). Her puppets are like creatures from another
planet, or your dreams.
There’s a set of
local world music and dance outfits on the Terrace, Sat. afternoon, 2-4 PM –
plus a total of ten musical acts over the course of the festival’s two days. Here’s the list:
From Honduras,
singer / songwriter / guitarist / percussionist – and former congressman – Aurelio Martínez y la Garifuna Soul Band
(Fri., 5 PM, Union Terrace). The Garifuna
of Honduras, Belize and Guatemala are the descendants of indigenous groups from
the Lesser Antilles and African slaves who were relocated from the islands to
the Caribbean coast of Central America by the British in the eighteenth
century. Garifuna sounds like it should
be an African tongue, but it’s not – it’s an indigenous Arawak language.
Martinez, who looks absolutely joyful when he sings, is the primary contemporary
interpreter of Garifuna paranda – guitar and drum dance music traditionally
played house to house to carry news and gossip around the community. This is his heritage – his father was a
parandero – though he often softens into ballads or plays paranda’s next-generation
child: rapid-fire, hip-shifting, booty-shaking punta. Garifuna music is always
alegre – it’s a way to keep suffering at bay, Martinez says in a Spanish
language YouTube documentary. And Honduras is a world capital of suffering. Thanks to
centuries of colonialism and neocolonialism (Honduras was the original banana
republic), plus the inevitable poverty and violence that emerge from these
conditions, los Zetas and la Mara Salvatrucha – the two most brutal crime
outfits in Latin America – operate in cahoots in Honduras. This country’s by far the largest contributor
of desperate migrants seeking refuge in the States. The Honduran city of San Pedro Sula, the
gateway to the Garifuna coast – it sits inland about 100 miles west of the port
of La Ceiba, Martinez’ home – is the
murder capital of the world. According
to an August 24 report, some 60 Honduran Garifuna risk their lives every day riding
“la bestia” – the freight train lumbering north through Mexico with migrant
hordes crammed on the roof that you’ve undoubtedly seen on the news. For them, Martinez is a culture hero. For us he’s an ambassador from a deeply
endangered cultural region. Everyone's lucky to have him, and his jubilant tunes.
From
Basque country on the Bay of Biscay, northeast Spain: Korrontzi (Fri. 7:45 PM,
Union Terrace; also Sat., 2 PM, Willy St. Fair) – dance music of a different stripe. The region was home to a cluster of medieval
European kingdoms that were integrated into the emerging Spanish state early in
the sixteenth century. The tenacious
Basques retained their unique language and culture. They’ve never liked being part of Spain –
separatist movements have rocked the region for some 120 years. Today Spain grants quasi autonomy to the
Basque region and other culturally defined territories within its national boundaries.
And Basque music is a shining example of
Spain’s cultural heterogeneity. It’s bouncy, or sometimes chewy, but always celebratory
– the polar opposite of the seething passion – duende – of southern Spain’s flamenco.
Led by trikitixa (diatonic button accordion) master Agus Barandiaran, this
band just smokes. The name’s taken from from
a legendary folk figure from the band’s hometown of Munguia,Vizcaya, who,
astride his burro, played his trikitixa for the crowds pouring out of church
after mass. Despite this traditional
image, Korrontzi – some of its members also play with Basque pop-rock band
Urgabe – subtly, and without ever losing its identity, opens up folk tunes to
world influences.
Korrontzi’s sound is irresistably danceable, and the band’s often
accompanied by dancers in their videos.
This is music is made to drive folk dances, like the one in this video ....
......but its textures are insanely rich. A couple of clips
of the band accompanying ballet (
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIz51U3Djgs&list=FL0-N6y7xyGM1wjBBvFJveVw) knock Balanchine's concept of dance as music made
visible out of the park.
From the
autunomous community of Andalucia, at Spain’s southern tip: Vanesa Aibar’s EviscerArt (ViscerArte), 8:30
PM, Play Circle, Memorial Union). Viscerarte takes its name from viscera –
you know, heart and guts – the physical seats of emotion and rhythm. Flamenco, born of poverty, sex and violence
in the medieval merchant ports of southern Spain, is Spanish, Jewish, Moorish, an
artform churned for centuries on the rocks of politics and fashion. Aibar’s an emerging star whose repertory ranges
from the smoldering sevillanas and bulerias of classic flamenco to balletic,
break dance-inspired nu flamenco. At the
MWMF she’s dancing unpartnered (I think); she’s accompanied by Eduardo Pacheco
on guitar and Cristian de Moret on vocals.
From the
islands of Trinidad and Tobago, in the Lesser Antilles off the Venezuelan
coast: the legendary juju warrior, the lioness of the jungle, the undisputed
Queen of Calypso, Calypso Rose, with
nu calypso band Kobo Town (Fri., 9:45
PM, Union Terrace). The islands, caught
in the colonial tug-of-war between Spain, France and Britain, just celebrated
the fifty-second anniversary of their independence from the Brits on August 31.
That’s a major historic marker for Calypso Rose, whose career began during the dawn
of Trinidadian autonomy. Today 74, she’s
a cancer survivor and lives in Queens, NY.
But no gritty New York borough, no disease, can diminish the diva. She’s
possessed by island spirits. Onstage she
dances, struts, scats and swings like the queen she’s always been.
Kobo Town (http://www.kobotown.com/), named for the birthplace of
calypso, a hardscrabble fishing neighborhood in Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, comes
via Toronto, Canada. Founder Drew Gonzalves was a teen displaced from his
homeland to the bitter Canadian plains who grew up with rock and then rediscovered
his roots.
Today he writes songs with
smart, socially conscious lyrics, and plays the cuatro – a small, four-stringed
guitar common in Latin America.
Traditional calypso’s got a
rolling, syncoppated 4/4 rhythm; Gonzalves’ nu calypso’s updated with reggae,
zouk and other post-calypso Caribbean beats, plus occasional hip-hop
inflections.
Moving Sound (Sat., 5:30 PM, Union Terrace) hails from Taiwan, that
democratic, capitalist Chinese island off the southeast coast of communist China.
The two Chinas, the result of the
Chinese Civil War (1927-1950), don’t recognize each other’s sovereignty – and Beijing
has 1500 ballistic missles pointed at Taiwan just in case a war of seperatism
breaks out. Moving Sound mixes
traditional Chinese instruments, currents of music and movement from across
Asia, high fashion, and a bold, forged-in-the-US avant-garde performance style
that would be unthinkable under the
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photo © Sheng Lin |
repressive thumb of the mainland communist
regime.
The ensemble – led by singer / dancer Mia Hsieh, whose parents fled Red
rule, and classically trained Pittsburgh-born composer Scott Prairie – has an intriguing
aesthetic that gets its kick from Hsieh, who studied performance in New York
with Meredith Monk, and whose looks are mesmerizing.
Moving Sound can’t solve China’s communist / capitalist crisis, but it transcends cultural tensions between the bitterly opposed political-economic systems
snarling at each other across the Taiwan Strait. And the band’s got enough
glitz to draw in western audiences, which puts a global spotlight on divided
China.
From
Tunisia, by way of Paris: singer / songwriter Emel Mathlouthi (Sat., 7:45 PM, Union Terrace), the voice of the
Jasmine Revolution – the opening salvo of the Arab Spring. In the dangerous haze of Islamic State terrorists
and other current crises let’s not forget that bright movement, which coincided
with Occupy Wall Street and our own uprising at the State Capitol in early 2011!
Mathlouthi, whose activist songs were banned on Tunisian radio, left her
homeland for the freedom of Paris in 2006.
But from the French capital, with her weapons of choice – a rangy,
melodic voice and a plugged-in acoustic guitar – she was a key player in the revolt that
began in December, 2010, and in January 2011 ousted Tunisian strongman Zine el
Abidine Ben Ali.
Three years earlier, Mathlouthi sang her song “Kelmti Horra” – in
English it means “The World is Free” – at the Place de la Bastille, where the French
Revolution broke out on July 14, 1789. Here's the video of that event:
“Kelmti
Horra” spread via social media to Tunisia, where it became the anthem of the
resistance. Mathlouthi found herself at
home, singing her song on the streets, as Ben Ali fled the country. Three years
later Tunisia’s still shaky, but change is coming – the little country on the
Mediterranean coast of North Africa, sandwiched between jihadi hotspots Algeria
and Libya, has free elections and a new constitution that includes many
rights for women. Mathlouthi continues
to write activist songs urging her people to stand strong and push forward.
From
Hungary, Söndörgö (Sat., Willy St. Fair,
3:45 PM). The Source of All
Knowledge – aka the Internet – says it’s pronounced “Shern-der-goe.” One band
member told a Dutch interviewer (see his whole interview here: http://www.festivalmundial.nl/en/news/meet%3A-s%F6nd%F6rg%F6/) that it’s a nonsense name, but these are
no-nonsense players on a mission to save what they call the lost music of the
Balkans – specifically old folk tunes from minority Serb and Croat villages in
Hungary. These communities are dying out,
which makes this cultural rescue vital.
Söndörgö’s rollicking folk tunes defy centuries of bad blood between
the Serbs and the Croats over land, religion, and trade. To my ear this fast, fiery music’s more like
Roma accordion dances than violin-driven Hungarian csárdás, but its lead instrument
is the tambura – a mandolin-like instrument brought to southeast Europe by
Ottoman Turks in the fourteenth or fifteenth century and quickly adopted by
Serb and Croat musicians. Accordion, an
exotic asortment of flutes, hand persuccion and sometimes saxophone round out
Söndörgö’s sound, which has occasional undercurrents of Silk Routes and snake charmers –
the Ottoman legacy.
The band – three brothers, a cousin, and a lifelong friend – are following
in the footsteps of the brothers’ father, whose own virtuoso tambura band, the
Vujicsics Ensemble, has been preserving the musical heritage of Hungarian Serbs
and Croats since the 1970s. The
Vujicsics, and before them the great Hungarian composer and ethnomusicologist
Bela Bartok, collected of hundreds of old folk songs from these communities. Söndörgö reinterprets them some, improvising
on the themes, but it’s pure – no outside influence here. The band’s touring its just-released CD, Tamburocket: Hungarian Fireworks on the
Riverboad label – I think it’s the band’s fifth album, though only the previous
one, Tamburising (World Village 2011)
is also available in the States.
From
another part of the world suffering from strife comes rising Malian guitarist Oumar Konaté (Sat., 5:45 PM, Willy St.
Fair), whose hometown is the city of Gao, capital of ancient empires and
still a trade crossroads on the Niger River in northern Mali. It’s volatile territory. Tribal tensions have divided the
country’s desert north from the semi-arid, Sahelian south since the fall of
French colonial rule in 1960. In early
2012 those deep-seated antagonisms exploded, opening the door for international
drug-trafficking jihadis. In short order
they captured the entire northern region and imposed Sharia law, amputating the
limbs of “offenders” in city squares and trying to annihilate the country’s
cultural identity by banning music.
The terrorists were
driven back by the French in 2013, though recurring flareups prevent peace. But Mali’s musicians, filled with the spirit,
refuse to let the bastards grind them down. Konaté’s debut international release, Addoh (“Tears”), just out on Clermont
Music, was, in fact, recorded during the jihad crisis. He wields a wicked axe, and you’ll recognize his
amped-up, Hendrix-soaked style – he’s played played backup for a handful of
Malian bluesmen including Vieux Farka Toure, whose numerous Mad City gigs
include a warmup concert for the 2011 MWMF.
Addoh’s got a couple of flirting
songs, a shake your booty dance number, some odes to being responsible (one’s titled “Respect your parents”) – and a pair of the most fearless political
songs I’ve ever heard. His music video
of “Our Country is Destroyed,” off Addoh,
says it all. .
La Yegros – Yegros is her paternal last name – brings slick, energetic, coquettish
electro-chamamé-cumbia from Argentina to the Willy St. Stage (Sat., 7:45 PM). Except for its current economic
crisis – the country just defaulted on an enormous World Bank debt – Argentina’s
pretty calm these days. It’s got Pope
Frances, soccer, and a sizzling electropop youth culture of which La Yegros is
a shining example. A former opera
student who cites Bjork as her favorite singer, she spent 15 years married to
and performing with King Coya, whose style is laid-back cumbia-reggae-hip hop
Latintronica. La Yegros – who just
launched her solo debut album, Viene de
Mi, on the Buenos Aires electrocumbia label ZZK – retains that approach,
but her tack is less altermodern, more Latin. Chamamé is folkloric, bandoneon-based
Afro-indigenous-eastern European dance music in syncopated 2/4 time that
originated in Argentina’s northeast region.
Cumbia, born on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, is folkloric,
accordion-based Afro-indigenous-European dance music in syncopated 4/4 time
that became more or less pan-Latin in the 20th century, spreading across
South America and up the Caribbean coast through Central America to the Gulf of
Mexico. La Yegros’ mix is heavily
chamamé / cumbia, with lots of electronic latinapop influences.
And
finally, from Cuba: Pablo Menéndez y
Mezcla (Sat., 9:45 PM, Union Terrace).
I could write a book about Cuba – in fact, I have – but all I’m going to
say right now is that el bloqueo –
the 53-year old US embargo on Cuba – is an utterly ridiculous foreign
policy. The economic impediments, the
travel ban, all those twisted covert plots – trying to kill Fidel with
exploding cigars, a fake Twitter project (“el
ZunZuneo”) aimed at spurring Cuban youth to rise up against the socialist
government – they’re like scenes from the Marx Brothers playbook, and I’m
talking about Groucho, Harpo and Chico, not Karl.
The Castros may be doddering, but they’re nobody’s fools. The iron hand
of socialism has its faults, but it’s kept the narco cartels that’ve overrun
the rest of the Caribbean and Latin America at bay. And Cuba’s got free (excellent) education and
health care for all. Yes, parts of the
system broke down when the Soviets pulled out – Cubans don’t have enough food
or enough money. But a trend toward
market socialism, the end of travel restrictions on Cuban citizens, and slowly
expanding Internet access are steps toward updating the system for the
twenty-first century. It’s the US that refuses to change. Congress is still
stuck in the Cold War, which is why Putin was able to waltz in this past July
and forgive Cuba’s Russian debt plus propose new infrastructural
investments. Putin seems fixed on
fighting with the West, but Cuba is not the enemy. Mezcla is living proof of the close ties
between the island where the palm trees grow and el Yuma (that’s us).
Mezcla's Afro-latin bop/rock fusion is too rangy to describe in a nutshell, but think Carlos Santana
meets Chucho Valdés and the Muñequitos de Matanzas. And Menéndez has, I’m almost positive, played
with all three at some point or other. A
Bay Area first-wave boomer red diaper baby, he's the
son of the husky-voiced socialist folk singer Barbara Dane, the first US artist
to perform in Cuba after the Revolution.
On the heels of that visit Menéndez attended high school at Havana’s
Escuela Nacional de Arte in Havana and decided to stay. And as proof that Cuba adapts and changes
with the times, today he’s a professor of electric guitar at the same
institution – though in the ‘60s, when he was a student and the Revolution was
young and fierce, Cuban youth listened to forbidden US jazz and rock broadcasts by sneaking onto the rooftops at night to pick up Miami radio
stations.
See this hombre sin fronteras and his band for yourself. Here they are at
Yoshi’s Oakland in 2013, playing the Chucho Valdés tune “Mambo Influenciado”….
[¡Aché!\